Lima

Despite the lack of hype around Lima and the fact that it is largely classed as a mere stop off point between places for travellers, we were surprised at how beautiful many of its crevices were. We stayed in Lima Central in an old 19th century mansion converted into a decently priced hostel. The centre was a bustling hub of activity and was a real mix of both middle class and much poorer locals. Many of its buildings were neo classical in style and covered in a thick layer of dirt from the ever-present inner city smog. Mariflores, in the south was quite different and the Peruvian equivalent of London's Primrose Hill. There was a stone beach with a dainty pier which had been cordoned off  and turned into a flashy restaurant for Lima's elite. Despite being excited by pretty much anything given that we had just arrived, we still sought to find a more local friendly down to earth vibe. Barranco, a little further south offered that and more. At night it was crowded with locals drinking on the streets, stalls with a display of intricate crafts and a labyrinth of inviting latin jazz clubs and seafood restaurants. Viewable from a bridge there was a glistening valley dotted with the most aesthetically alluring cubby holes to drink and eat with the most beautiful views. We managed to find our way down there and had a feast of local fish stews and Pisco sours. After a few days in Lima we are now more than ready to begin our explorations of rural Peru.